The Serial Eater was remembering fondly some family vacations on Cape Cod. Kato brought the Auburn around for a drive to the Lakeside Bar & Grill, a place that the Serial Eater hoped would approximate the laid-back beach vibe and come-as-you-are summer ambiance.
Kato moved the Speedster deftly into the parking lot to take in views of Pontoosuc Lake as dusk approached. Satisfied that no water threats existed, Kato led the way into the decidedly Cape-y main dining room. Posters advertising beer and brands of alcohol adorned the walls. The large, gleaming bar was well-stocked, and the bare tables signaled that a cover-up over a bathing suit and flip-flops would be appropriate attire.
We asked for and received a table on the two-tiered deck at one of the wooden picnic tables. Others were occupied by jovial groups of six or more squeezing every drop from their vacation. Though only one server and a bartender were on duty, our drink orders for mock Moscow Mules were taken quickly as was our dinner order.
We settled on sharing Buffalo cauliflower bites with bleu cheese dip to start. Kato, in training again for his next competition, muttered something about red meat being required to keep up his muscle-building. He ordered the NY Strip. It being on the water, and being completely in a Cape Cod frame of mind, The Serial Eater ordered fish and chips. We note here that their menu on the evening of our visit differed substantially from their online menu.
Our mules delivered, we relaxed and enjoyed the stillness of the setting and the soft air this warm and dry evening. Kato surveyed the lake, which was flat and devoid of movement. The bites arrived, and we asked for additional celery sticks for Kato which followed quickly. Though the batter was a bit thick, these were nicely fiery morsels with fresh and ample cauliflower chunks inside. The contrast of the spicy buffalo seasoning and the tamer but well-seasoned cauliflower worked admirably. Two-bite mouthfuls, coated with the cooling, thick bleu cheese dip seemed to go perfectly with our beach mindset. The portion was more than enough for two, as the batter coat and dip made each bite quite filling.
The server was very attentive, inquiring as to our readiness for the main courses, and leaving us to our contemplation of the lake and Kato’s questions about the meaning of the universe and whether humans really have free will.
Our mains arrived piping hot. The Serial Eater’s fish was coated in a very light and crisp batter that was well seasoned and reminiscent of the best one can find on the Cape. The cod beneath was very moist and tender— no overfrying here. The fries were a cross between home-fries with their skin on, and the regular variety, shaped as little dippers which was handy for scooping up ketchup. The cole slaw was nondescript and the tartar sauce could have used a squeeze more lemon. Given the accommodating nature of the service, The Serial Eater could have requested another lemon wedge to self-administer the citrus.
Kato’s plate shared the same fries, with the addition of some nicely done zucchini squash. They were thinly sliced and seared on the grill. The Serial Eater would have polished them off, had Kato not tried to stab me with his fork.
The steak, however, was another matter. Despite my admonition that steak is probably not a good choice for a restaurant by the water, Kato persisted. The meat was cooked as requested, but was quite grisly. At $27, The Serial Eater would have expected a slightly better cut of meat. It didn’t seem to matter to Kato, who polished it off, dipping furiously in the accompanying flavorful jus, and avoiding the gristle as he worked through the meat.
The server informed us that ice cream would be available for dessert, but we demurred, knowing that many outstanding soft-serve stands were in our future.
The relaxed vibe and fresh, well-made food makes this a place the Serial Eater will return to for an informal, yet well-made dinner that epitomizes what one wants from summer vacation type eating.
Next time we dine here, which, given my and Kato’s enthusiasm will be soon, we eyed the bacon-wrapped scallops as starters along with the salads which include a house and a Caesar. Kato is longing for a cup of chowder next time. For mains, the clam strip platter, pan seared scallops and blackened cod seemed promising. In addition to fried baskets, burgers and pastas are available.
Before jumping into the Auburn, Kato escorted me to the edge of the lower dining deck for one last look at the lake as the sun began its descent behind the mountains. Top down on the Speedster to prolong the summer feel a while longer, Kato pointed the Auburn toward home and we discussed what eating experiences we might take up next.
